TRRSTAN

1. Soldering Iron and Solder (Flux core, Either Leaded or Lead-Free)
2. Hot glue gun and hot glue
3. #2(regular) and #3(small) Phillips screwdrivers
4. Wire stripper or knife
5. Fine grit Sand Paper or Emory cloth
6. Butane lighter
7. Multi-meter
8. Wax paper or glossy magazine paper
9. Safety glasses
10. An android Smartphone with 3.5mm TRRS headphone jack. (standard headphone+mic connector)
11. Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel(optional but recommended)
12. Rechargeable AA batteries and charger(optional but recommended)

Safety Considerations:

1. A cold soldering iron looks the same as a hot one. It sure does not feel the same though!
2. The smoke you see when soldering is not vaporized solder, it is burning flux. It is not toxic, but can be iterating, so work in a well ventilated area.
3. Make sure your work area is free of flammable materials, and always turn your soldering iron off if you leave your work area, even just for a minute or two.
4. You should allays have a fire extinguisher somewhere in the house, Go look at it and check that the pressure gauge indicates full. Sometimes a curious pet or child will knock the hot iron into a trashcan or onto the carpet. Cats are notorious for this.
5. The maximum voltage on the circuit board is a safe 5V, even so, I would not recommend licking the board.
6. There are three common ways people damage their eyes while soldering. When clipping wires or leads, the end of the wire may fly off and hit you in the eye. The second is when you drop a part on the floor and go to retrieve it; you may become entangled in the power cord and pull the hot iron off the table onto yourself. The third is when tinning a wire, the wire springs back and flings a droplet of molten solder into your eye. For these reasons is recommended to wear safety glasses.
7. If you use a knife, cut away from your body. The rhyme goes: “Cut towards your buddy and you won’t get bloody.”
8. If you are under 15, adult supervision is recommend.
9. Lead free solder’s major strength is that it does not contain lead. Its major weakness is that it does not contain lead. It does not flow quite as nicely as leaded and requires higher temperatures. It also makes dull colored joints instead of shiny so it is more difficult to tell good joints from bad. Whichever you choose, wash your hands after working with solder.

Assembly Instructions:

1. Check the included packing list to make sure you have all the parts you are supposed to. If you are missing parts, contact the seller for a replacement.
2. Clean the circuit board,servos,  and all parts except the screws with a paper towel and some Isopropyl Alcohol. Clean, grease-free parts solder and glue much better.
3. Using the flathead 10/32 screw and the ½” aluminum standoff, attach the battery holder to the bottom of the circuit board. Use the large hole next to the tan colored quad optocoupler chip.
4. (optional) You may want to shorten the leads of the battery holder so that there is not a lot of extra wire, they just need to be long enough to reach the holes labeled “BAT +” and “BAT -” If you shorten the wires, re-tin the ends before soldering.
5. Solder the red wire to “BAT +” and the black wire to “BAT -”.
6. Set the power switch to “OFF”
7. Insert the batteries, taking care to follow the polarity diagram imprinted into the holder, If you put the batteries in backwards you damage the board or release the magic smoke. (All electronics devices contain magic smoke, put there at the factory, which makes them work. If you let the magic smoke out, the device will not work anymore 🙂
8. Once you are certain the batteries are set to the correct polarity, Set the power switch to “ON.” You should see the green power led light up. If the light does not come on, or the red light next to “LOW” is on, replace the batteries, check your solder connections, and check that the power wires are not broken. If the light still does not come on, your board is defective or damaged in shipping, contact the seller for a replacement.
9. Check that the power is correctly boosted to 5V. Set your meter to dc volts, and touch the black probe to the bottom row of servo 1. Touch the red probe to the middle row of servo 4. This is so that you will not touch the test probes together and cause a short. Your meter should read between 4.9V and 5.1V If you cant get a reading, check your meter against a battery, It should read around 1.6V for alkaline, or 1.3V for rechargeables.
10. Set the power switch to “OFF” and remove the batteries.
11. You now need to cut the headphone cord. Cut the headphone cord near the female end, If it is too long you can shorten it later.
12. Strip off about 1” of the outer sheath of the headphone cord. If you nick the inner wires, cut the cord shorter and try again.
13. The inner wires are coated with a special clear insulation that makes soldering impossible. Sand off about ½” by pinching the wire between a small folded piece of sandpaper and pulling several times.  You can also try to burn it off with a butane ligher.
14. Clean the ends of the wires with Alcohol and tin. If the wires do not tin easily you need to do more sanding.
15. Set your voltmeter to continuity mode. It should beep when you touch the leads together. If you do not have continuity mode, you can use the resistance test mode and watch for a number that is less then 5ohms.
16. You will now need to determine which wire goes to what pin. The type of connector is called “tip-ring-ring-sleeve” or “TRRS”. From tip to sleeve it goes LEFT, RIGHT, GND(COM),MIC  COM is so called be cause it is the common ground for the three other wires. Start at the tip and use your meter to figure out which wire goes to which part of the connector. Write down your results  For the wires that ship with version 1.4 of the kit the colors are (L=BLUE, R=GREEN, COPPER=GND(COM),RED=MIC)
17. Insert the headphone cord from the bottom through the hole in the center of the board. Pull through enough length so that you can reach the solder holes labeled ”L,R,COM,MIC” Knot the cord so it can not be pulled out. There should be enough slack so that the small wires will not be ripped out if the cord is pulled. You may want to use a dab of hot glue at the hole to further secure the cord.
18. Solder the headphone wires into their holes, taking care not to create a short or solder bridge to anywhere else on the board. The tan chip optically isolates the headphone cord from the rest of the circuit board. This protects your phone from damage if the board malfunctions, or is incorrectly assembled. It also reduces radio interference. If you create a short or a bridge, your phone will not be protected. You may need temporally remove the battery holder for this step.
19. Clip off any extra wire sticking out where you soldered the headphone cord so it will not short.
20. Now check that your connections are correct. With your meter in continuity mode, it should beep when you touch: tip-to-L,ring-to-R, 2^nd ring-to-COM, sleeve-to-MIC. It is ok for COM and MIC to be connected, when they are connected the phone sees the cable as a regular TRS stereo headphone, Instead of headphone + mic.
21. Solder the six pin headers in the holes marked “SERVO SIG” You may need To temporally remove the battery holder for this step.
22. Using the aluminum servo clamp and the Philips head screw, clamp the two servos to the top edges of the board. The tabs of the servos should stick out just beyond the ends of the clamp, and the output shafts should be near the top edge of the board.
23. The hole in the clamp is designed to fit tightly around the 1/2” spacer. After tightening the screw, if the servos are easily wiggled, you can use the foam tape to fix the servos to the clamp. This will hold them securely when the clamp is re tightened.
24. Plug the servos into headers 1 and 3. The signal pin is at the top, the power pin in the middle, and the Ground line at the bottom. The ground wire is typically black or brown. If you plug a servo in backwards, it should not damage it, but the servo will not work until is correctly connected.
25. You can optionally bundle the servo wires in the small space in between the two servos for a neater look. Take care not to short or break the headphone cord wires. The headphone wires can be reinforced and insulated with small dabs of hotglue, but you should make sure your cellbot is working first because the hotglue makes soldering impossible until it is removed.
26. Remove and save the small inner ring from the encoder labels. Apply the two encoder labels to the writing side of the CDs. Take your time and try to get them as centered as possible. If the labels tear or are not centered, do not worry about it too much, new labels are provided in the sensor upgrade kit, or you can print more.
27. Tear off two small bits of sticky paper from an unused part of your sticker sheet.  Use these bits to cover the holes in the servo horn so you do not get glue in them.  Then flip the sticker sheet over to the waxy side and set the wheels and horns on the paper.  The waxy paper is so you do not glue your wheels to the table. Use the small inner ring sticker or some scotch tape to hold the horns centered in place before you glue so you do not burn your fingers. Hotglue two servo horns into the middle of the CD wheels. For normal width, glue the horns from the shiny side with the spline cup going through the cd hole. For a wider stance, you can glue the horns on the label side, with the spline cup not going through the hole.
28. Screw the small wheels onto the ends of the allthread rear axle. The hubs should face inward. You should adjust them so that the wheels just clear the width of the board. They may be hard to start at first because the ends of the all thread are roughly cut to provide friction so the small wheels do not come unscrewed.
29. Snap the black plastic wire clamps onto the rear axle. Line them up with the holes in the bottom of the circuit board.
30. Insert the rubber coated screws from the top, and attach the wire clamps to bottom of the board with the nuts. The tension in the wire clamps will keep the nuts from backing off, do not over tighten.
31. Set your voltmeter to continuity mode. It should beep when you touch the leads together. If you do not have continuity mode, you can use the resistance test mode and watch for a number that is less then 5ohms.
32. Now check for shorts that could damage your phone. With your meter in continuity mode, touch one probe to the GND pin of the servo headers. Touch the other to the TRRS connecter, touching each segment in turn. It should not beep. Repeat for and all the other pins, as well as the holes for the headers labeled “SENSOR”. If your meter beeps, you have a short and should fix it before continuing. During this process, occasionally touch the probes together to make sure the beeper is working.
33. Attach the wheels to the servos using the small servo screws, check that the big wheels do not rub on the small ones.
34. The physical assembly is complete. You may now test fit your phone. If you wish, there is a bracket and strap which you can use to attach the phone more securely. It is recommended you use a case and screen protector on your phone, to protect your phone from scratches.
35. Insert the batteries, taking care to follow the polarity diagram imprinted into the holder.
36. Install the servo tester app from the cellbots google code project.
37. When you run app, you should hear a buzzing sound that changes when you adjust the sliders.
38. Set your phone to 2/3 volume.
39. Now plug in your phone and increase the volume until the servos turn in both directions reliably. If the servos do not or turn in only one direction, it can be a sign that your phone is not loud enough.
40. Congratulations, you built your own working Cellbot!